Adventures at the Cave, home of the Knob Busters: steps backwards and steps forwards

Glen (Thoroughbred Cycles) called me about the inspection of the cylinder heads and it wasn't all good news. Bear in mind that I sent in 2 pairs of heads, one pair from Gilera and one pair from a 1979 R100RT that I want to get reworked so that I can swap that onto Toad the 1982 R100RT when I get a chance (soon). I was thinking about using both sets the way they were but decided instead to have them checked out just in case. A variety of worn exhaust valve guides, bad valve seats, bad valves, an exhaust port thread that was damaged, flame ring indentation, head base surface damage, etc. is going to cost about $1000 before I can have them back. This is because I don't want to cut any cost or take any shortcuts; I want heads that will last another 100,000 miles each. That should get me to the wheelchair.
So, whilst those are going in for repair I picked up the parts I need to refurbish the timing chain. I need to get that done so that I can put the cover back on and get back to the rear main seal replacement. Well, when I got the chain off and went to compare it with the new one to see how much it had stretched I found out that the new one was for a K100, it is about twice too long! Wrong part. I called Glen, he doesn't have the right part in stock but will get it going for me. Meanwhile, I rigged up a solution to hold the crankshaft back in place so that I can get to the rear main seal repair.

When working on the timing chain get the OT mark visible in the flywheel peek hole and make sure that the marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket stay lined up. I put a paint dot on each mark to make it more visible.

The repair manual nor the fiche show these but there are two washer shimming the chain guide out from the casting.

I didn't get the satisfaction (yet) of seeing how much chain stretch I've got but both the tensioner (shown here) and the chain guide were not just worn out but defabricating. Chunks coming off.

So, on to the rear main seal. Now that I have the crankshaft secured so that it won't move forward I can remove the flywheel to get to the rear main seal.
How to clean? Stuff it with a sock.